LIFE WITH LYNN: Quilt

You know by now this isn't a "craft" blog, although you probably also know by now that I am a fan of all things artsy and craftsy! So, I just had to share my latest little project, the tote bag pictured above.

Here's the back story. A girlfriend invited me and several other friends to her home for a two-evening quilted tote bag class. This was supposed to be two classes of 2 hours each: four hours total. The teacher, "Miss Nancy", gave us handwritten instructions copied onto pink paper. I am not a sewing newbie, yet I was perplexed and often lost during the class. We stayed late (very late!) both nights, and still had about 10 hours of "homework" to do on our own. I kid you not! It did come out adorable, but there is just NO WAY I wanna spend THAT MUCH TIME on a tote bag, no matter how stinkin' cute it is!

As we were making this tote, I kept getting ideas on how it could be done easier and faster. So when the class was over and the tote fiiiiiiiiinally done... I decided to put my money where my mouth is and make a second bag, trying out my ideas. *SUCCESS!* Yep, the second bag, using my "tweaked and revised" directions, only took a few hours, start to finish. It was a very fun and "instant gratification" type of a project. Just the kind I like when I don't want to make a long term commitment to a quilt! LOL!

So with many thanks and all-due-respect to Miss Nancy, herein I present...

“MISS NANCY’S PATCHWORK TOTE BAG”

(w/ LYNN’S REVISIONS AND SIMPLIFICATIONS!)

FINISHED SIZE: Approx 17” (wide) x 14” (tall)

This tote can easily be made with 5 fat quarters and 1 yard of coordinating fabrics.

(Or simply “mix and match” from your stash, and cut pieces to size as below.)

Also needed: Warm and Natural, or other thin cotton batting.

(Approx. 60” x 40”; or in pieces a little larger than: 18” x22”; 18” x 14”; 18” x 8”; 5” x 96”)

NOTE: Photos below are from various stages of both totes... the one I made in class (the flowered one) and the one I made on my own (the kitty one). I apparently didn't have the wherewithall to get all the pictures from one project! ;o)

CUTTING:

BODY OF TOTE:

5” x 22” Side #1, cut one

5” x 22” Side #2, cut one

10” x 22” Middle, cut one

BOTTOM:

18” x 14”, cut one

OUTSIDE POCKETS:

18” x 16”, cut one

STRAPS:

5” x 48”, cut two (For 1.25” wide finished straps)

TIES, OPTION 1:

Makes softer, floppier ties: 3/4" wide finished (2 fabric layers)

2” x 12”, cut 4

-or-

TIES, OPTION2:

Makes firmer, stiffer ties: 5/8” wide finished (4 fabric layers)

2.5” x 12”, cut 4:

LINING:

18” x 36”, cut one (NOTE: Depending on exact finished size of tote body, this may be approximate. Do not cut this piece until tote body is done and you can double check this measurement.)

INSIDE POCKET(S) -- OPTIONAL:

18” x 16”, cut one for one inside pocket , or cut 2 for two inside pockets

BINDING (top finish):

6” x 36” (for 1” finished binding)

PIECING/QUILTING

(NOTE: ALL SEAMS ARE 1/2” unless otherwise noted.)

BODY OF TOTE:

Sew one 5” x 22” piece on each side of the 10” x 22” piece along long edges .

Press seams toward darker fabric.

Size of tote body at this point should be 18” x 22”.

Cut a piece of batting larger than 18” x 22” and lay the tote body (right side up) on the batting and carefully smooth it out. Pin the tote body and the batting together with quilting pins (large straight pins).

Using your favorite method, mark two diagonal, intersecting 45 degree lines (I use a Hera marker, which only creases the fabric. Hera markers are available online or in most quilt or fabric stores.) If you don't have a Hera marker, use a water soluble or disappearing marker, chalk, etc.

Then, using a walking foot with a guide, quilt the tote body in a diagonal “grid” pattern, with lines 1” apart. (NOTE: If you don’t have a walking foot with a guide, you will have to mark ALL of your grid lines.)
Press, “square up” and trim batting even with tote body.

This is the front side of mine (before trimming batting) :

This is the back (batting) side of mine:

Carefully measure and cut tote body in half crossways, making 2 pieces, each 18” x 11”.

TOTE BOTTOM:

Cut a piece of batting larger than 18” x 14”.

Lay the tote bottom piece on the batting, smooth out, and pin as above.

Mark with two diagonal, dissecting 45 degree lines, and quilt in a 1” diagonal grid pattern as above.

Press, “square up”, and trim batting even with tote bottom.

OUTSIDE POCKETS:

Press 18” x 16” pocket piece in half lengthwise, right sides out. (Will now measure 18” x 8”)

Cut a piece of batting 18” x 8”.

Place the batting carefully between the layers of fabric, edges even, smooth out, and press.

Topstitch 1/4" from the fold. (This will be the top of the pockets.)

Pin the 3 layers together and mark/quilt as above in a 1”diagonal grid pattern.

Cut pocket piece in half crossways, making 2 pieces, each 9”x 8”.

ADD OUTSIDE POCKETS TO TOTE BODY:

Using the photos of the completed bags as your guide, place one pocket in the center of each tote body half, raw “bottom edges” of pocket and tote body even. Stitch pocket to tote body along both sides (long edges) of pocket using a 1/4" seam. (The straps will cover these raw edges later.)

(Note: if you want the side pieces of your tote bag to be alternating fabric between front and back as mine are, then “flip-flop” second tote body piece before adding pocket.)

STRAPS:

Press each strap in half, lengthwise, right sides out. (At this point, straps will measure 2.5” x 48”)

Then open, and with wrong side up, turn each long edge into center fold, wrong sides together, and press. (At this point, straps will measure 1.25” x 48”.)

Cut 2 pieces of batting, 1 1/8” x 48”.

Open each strap and insert batting between either of the fabric folds. Refold carefully and press.

Stitch 1/8” or 1/4" (your preference) along each long edge.

PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER:

ADD STRAPS:

Position one strap on one tote body piece as follows:

Center a strap over the seam between the pocket and the side piece of the tote. Being careful that strap isn’t twisted, center the other end of the strap on the other seam between pocket and side. Pin in place.

Following your previous strap stitching, stitch strap to bag, starting from the bottom. Extend your stitching 1” past pocket (toward top of bag). Reinforce stitching at top by triple stitching, or stitch a decorative “barn door” pattern:

Repeat with other strap on other tote body piece.

BOTTOM:

With right sides together, sew a tote body piece to each long edge of the bottom.

At this point, you should have:

Press each seam toward bottom and topstitch on bottom 1/4" inch from seam.

LINING:

Measure size of open tote shell. Cut lining the same size. Set lining aside for now.

TOTE SIDES:

With right sides together, fold tote in half; stitch each side. Press.

BOX CORNERS ON TOTE:

While still inside out, make mitered/box corners by pressing each corner into a flat triangle, matching the bottom seam to the side seam. Measure down the seam 1.75” and sew horizontally across the triangle. Your seam should be 3.5” long. Stitch again to reinforce. See diagram below (borrowed from HERE).

Repeat on other corner. Turn tote body right-side out.

OPTIONAL :

If making inside pockets, add these to lining now:

Press each 18” x 16” piece in half, making an 18” x 8” pocket piece.

Top stitch 1/4" from folded edge.

Sew to right side of lining, stitching pocket on both sides and across bottom, with pocket top (opening) 4.5” down from each raw, short edge of lining.

NOTE: After attaching to lining, pockets can be divided by stitching one or more vertical lines as desired.

With right sides together, sew lining in half along sides. Turn right-side out.

Make box corners as above.

With wrong sides together, place lining inside tote, and line up the top raw edges. Pin and baste.

BINDING:

With wrong sides together, press one short edge of binding under 1/4".

Then press binding in half lengthwise, wrong sides together.

Starting with the 1/4" turned down edge, position binding along top raw edge of tote. Pin. (TIP: start binding where it will be hidden by the strap.) Leave the first 2” unsewn. Stitch in a scant 1” seam, tucking in and overlapping ends about 1”.

Blindstitch vertical overlap where binding meets.

Turn binding to back (lining side) and hand stitch (blind stitch) in place.

TIES:

For OPTION #1 ties:

Press each strap piece in half lengthwise, right sides together; sew 1/4" from raw edge, to make a “tube”. Turn right-side out. Press, tucking in each raw edge 1/4". Edgestitch short ends.

For OPTION #2 ties:

For each strap piece: Turn both short edges in 1/4" (wrong sides together) and press. Then press fabric in half lengthwise. Then fold in each long edge to the center and press. Edgestitch all four sides.

Position and stitch straps on outside of each tote side, approx. 1.5” from strap toward side seam and 2.5” down from top of tote.

STABILIZER FOR BOTTOM (OPTIONAL):

Cut a piece of plastic mesh (the kind used for plastic needlepoint projects, and readily available in craft and fabric stores) the size of the bottom: 3” x 17”. If desired, cover with fabric to match lining.

Place stabilizer in bottom of tote; tack in place if desired.

ENJOY!

So, how fun are these bags?! And just perfect for totin' around your *stuff* or giving as a gift.

If you like this bag, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. And if you make one of your own, I would love to see what you've done!

And before I end this post, and because you also know that I am certifiably CAT CRAZEEE, I just haaaaad to share a couple of pictures of my chief sewing companion and right hand helper, my Ragdoll kitty Bentley (aka "Squeak"). OK, HOW FUNNY IS HE???!

Looking for some fairly instant gratification (and to satisfy a bee that was buzzing around in my bonnet), I decided to make a "mini" quilt; actually a table-topper. I had an idea in my head, so I figured out the style and finished size I would need and planned it out on graph paper:

First the squares of fabric (100% cotton only, of course!) need to be cut, using a rotary cutter and clear quilting ruler. Each square would have to be exactly 3" x 3" (for a finished block size of 2.5" x 2.5") and I knew that I'd need to cut 162 of the little buggers! (28 "dark" value, 40 "medium", and 94 "light".) So I went to my fabric stash and started rooting around.

Once the fabrics were chosen and all the squares cut, I laid them out on the sewing table, arranging and rearranging until it was *juuuuust right*! The general idea was darker squares through the center of the topper gradually fading out to medium and then light squares; with medium and dark colors at the outer edge as a "frame".

This type of quilt is called "on point", and that means that the squares are positioned on their points, diamond shaped.

Once I had all the blocks arranged (this is where my OCD kicks in big time!) and after my hubby gave it an objective second opinion (all squares pleasingly placed, color "even" throughout, no two colors accidentally placed side-by-side... etc!) -- I stacked, pinned and numbered the individual rows in preparation for sewing. That's a bit time-consuming, but I've never been able to figure out an easier (but still idiot-proof!) way to successfully do that!

Now, using only 100% cotton thread, the fun (sewing!) started. Each "packet" of pinned-together squares represents a specific row of the quilt. I keep the rows carefully numbered, so I know the order to sew the rows together, when that time comes. BTW, quilts are always sewn with one-quarter-inch seam allowance, and seams are always pressed to one side, never pressed open.

Now the individual rows are all done (sewn and pressed), and ready to be sewn together.

Now the rows are sewn together. It's not pressed yet, but it's starting to look like a quilt!

After I press the front, I carefully press the back. (Yeah, I'm as OCD about the BACK as I am the front!) But srsly ;o) careful pressing is as important as careful sewing, and if the seams aren't nice and flat and smooth, it WILL be noticeable when the quilt is finished!

Now the top is finished! But the quilt is still far from being done.

Next I cut a piece of fabric for the back, and a piece of batting for the "middle" layer of the quilt, (I prefer "Warm and Natural", a thin 100% cotton batting). Both the batting and the backing need to be cut a little larger than the quilt top. Then I fold all 3 pieces lovingly, kiss them goodbye ;o) and take the whole kit 'n' kaboodle to a professional machine quilter for her to do her magic. Twenty five dollars and a few weeks later, this is what I get back:

Here are some close-ups of the stitching... isn't it beautiful? This is called a "stipple" design, and it is my all-time favorite. Nice and tight, with lots of thread. *YUM!*

The quilt now needs "squared up" and the excess fabric and batting (carefully!) trimmed away. A 15" clear, square Omni-Grid quilter's ruler works great for getting this right.

All 4 sides trimmed; quilt nice and "square":

The quilt is almost done. It just needs the binding made and sewn along the edge to finish.

I chose the fabric for the binding and then figured out how much I needed to make: (Basically, the outer perimeter of the quilt plus 10" added for the mitered corners, which in this case equals 138") See how high-tech my cipherin' is?!

For 1/2" finished binding, four strips of (40" wide) fabric are cut 3" wide, then sewn together into one long piece of fabric. This is then folded in half lengthwise, pressed, and sewn with a 1/2" seam allowance to the front edge of the quilt (by machine), folded over and sewn to the back by hand.

The binding is now all sewn on.

Once the binding is pressed and folded to the back, and the corners neatly mitered, it's hand-sewn all around. A thimble and a good movie (and a kitty or two nearby!) makes this part pretty fast and enjoyable!

Here's what the finished back looks like:

*TA DA!* Mission Accomplished! Project Mini-Quilt complete and placed on the table! I love it!

Really, how CUTE is that?! And it was pretty darn quick 'n' easy, too -- especially with the help and company of my two quilt-lovin' trusty side-kicks!